Cute Robot Design Ideas

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Cute Robot Design Ideas – RobotCreator DX has a 1.8-GHz Cortex-A53 octa-core processor, a set of sensors, a 7-inch LCD touch display, servo motors for moving arms and wheels, facial recognition, and a camera for video chat. . , and six microphones and a speaker

RobotCreator DX comes as a kit with over 100 components, as well as tools needed for assembly and access to online tutorials.

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More than 350 animation expressions and more than 500 animation commands are available for use in the programming interface.

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Robot Critter DX can be taught to interact with users through physical movements and on-screen animations and videos.

Building a robot from the ground up and then making it do what you want can be a serious head scratcher. Taiwan’s NUWA Robotics wants to simplify things with a cute little robot companion called RobotCreator DX, as well as an easy-to-use cloud-based programming platform.

DX is currently crowdfunding on Kickstarter. It comes as a do-it-yourself kit, and is made up of more than a hundred components — including a dozen servers, six microphones and a speaker unit, a bunch of sensors, and a 7-inch LCD display in the head module — to With the necessary tools to assemble through online guides and videos. Optional badges, shields and other accessories are also available for running the boot.

Once assembled, it measures 318 x 307 x 166 mm (12.5 x 12 x 6.5 in) and weighs 2.5 kg (5.5 lb). Onboard processing power comes from a Qualcomm octa-core chip and it lasts about four hours per charge (or seven hours on standby) on a 9,100-mAh battery.

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Roboticists then need to access a cloud-based interface called RoFlow Workflow to program the desktop bot and respond to voice commands, serve up interactive games, host video chats and more.

No prior knowledge of coding is required, as users simply fill in command modules or move around and create triggers within the visual interface to create routines for the robot to follow. Basic operation is free, but people will need to subscribe to the Plus plan to unlock more advanced feature sets.

For those who want to get their coding hands at least a little dirty, NUWA has built a block-based CodeLab tool into the device itself or can be accessed from a computer or mobile device – with standard programming blocks – Also includes blocks for sound/motion/light/expression and MQTT for “cross-device control and connectivity”, publish-subscribe, machine-to-machine networking protocols, artificial intelligence and object intelligence via Google’s Teachable Machines. AI training school blocks for programming.

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Through the TrainCat Chatbot Dialog Design Tool, tiny bots can be taught to interact with users through physical movements, on-screen images, and video or voice chat. There’s also a schedule-based content editor for programming the robot to move and express itself, while a skin editor allows skins to be created using the included templates or via Photoshop/Illustrator. Create dynamic expressions.

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DX programmers can share code, designs, games, and other resources with fellow users on the NUWA MakerBase platform worldwide.

NUWA Robotics has launched the Robot Crater DX on Kickstarter to bring the project to production. Pledges start at $599 and if all goes according to plan with the pre-funded campaign, shipments are expected to begin in October.

While Paul is reluctant to reveal his age, he will admit to cutting his IT teeth on a TRS-80 (though he won’t say which version). His passion for computer technology turned from a hobby to a career and then he moved to France for 10 years where he started working for New Atlas in 2009. Now back in his hometown of Blighty, he serves as Managing Director in Europe. Hello, welcome. This lesson! I’m AzzouBK and today we’re going to learn how to design and paint this cute, “very cute” humanoid robot!

Whether you’re making it for a game, animation, or just a picture… here are some useful things to keep in mind.

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First tip: Before starting the design, decide on the “class” or “task” of your robot. This will significantly change the final shape and design. For example, a fighting robot would be big and strong enough to shoot; Where a maid or maid robot will probably be the smallest is for storage space or general maintenance.

Second tip: Related to the previous point, choose a color scheme that matches the purpose of your robot. Then, if you’re going with a war machine maybe add some camouflage paint or something nasty like a black/red combo… and maybe pink/white for the nurse robot.

Tip #3: Relying only on the “circuit board view” won’t help much here, as can be seen in my initial designs. human beings? Like really bad cosplay…

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Thus, you need to emphasize the look of the robot including large/small body parts, tools and gears, lights and transparent surfaces, mechanical joints and hydraulic muscles, energy sources…etc. Do your research and get as many references as you can!

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You can use 3D models to help with human anatomy or try finding a pre-made robot in Clip Studio’s asset library.

However, I have created a complete guide on how to use 3D models for anatomical reference in this guide!

Still! I sketched the anatomy of a normal human, then cut it into pieces to transfer my robot design to a human body, making it a human-like robot.

Line drawing is your process of drawing. Feel free to draw each body part on its own layer to make it easier to correct any mistakes.

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Also, I recommend naming and organizing all your layers to help save you time and headaches!

Then, with the “Auto Selection” or “Fill” tool, select and fill the character shapes to create a base color layer; Then clip a new folder to it.

Start coloring again! As before, you want to separate each color into its own layer “skin, metallic, blue…”

Next, add two more layers associated with each color, one for the shadows and one for the highlights. “I know many layers haha”

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There are many effects you can apply, such as rim light, color dodge, Instagram filters… “Just don’t overdo it” I decided to stick with these simple effects :p

Depth of field: You can achieve this effect by darkening distant objects or painting them with a lighter color.

Find your base color layer, and left-click on its preview image while holding the “Ctrl” button to select your character’s shape; Then create a new layer on top of your artwork and paint the outermost layer with light blue.

Bill! LED Flash! Add a new layer on top and set its Blending Mode to “Add (Glow)” or “Glow Dodge”, then paint dark blue over the blue lines to highlight them. Meet “Sally Servo” the cardboard robot costume I designed for Brown Dog Gadgets. Our goal was to inspire manufacturers to not only create simple cardboard robot costumes – but to make these costumes truly robotic using simple electronics. 

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So, I’ve designed 6 projects that can stand alone or be integrated into any cardboard robot outfit – with beginners in mind. Here are tutorials that show you how to make each one: 

In this post, I’ll share the design ideas and process I went through, as well as how I made this cardboard robot costume. My design goal was to make her look feminine without making her appear “sexy” like many female robots in historical media. However, I took inspiration from many of our favorite robots and interpreted their characteristics through a young, female perspective.

One time pass is equal to a thousand pictures, because it is! I wanted to share the whole process so I made my own time-lapse camera. Here, you can see every step of the production process. 

I created a “fast and dirty” prototype with some scraps of cardboard. My initial design looked more like “armor” and not like a technical robot, so I learned a lot. 

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The plan for the sysplate and head was to create a structure that could house the electronics and open the midriff where I would add cables like the C-3P0. It will make it easier for me to move around and the two-piece suit will make it easier to work. 

I prototyped the figures and constantly experimented to get the proportions right. I learned that the femininity of the shape can be enhanced by slightly angling the center panel, and making sure the sides around the waist are angled to suggest an hourglass shape. I had originally planned another electrical project for the center front panel (the big white rectangle), but scrapped it because the panel was too big and it interfered with the beauty of the shape. 

To make the skirt, I started with a thick band around the hips. I made this piece larger than my hips to allow room for cables, and lots of wiggle room when needed.

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