Clothes Design Process – This comprehensive guide teaches you the basics of creating clothing patterns from start to finish. Create a production-ready model, a personal model, and everything in between. You will learn the basics of pattern making and the most common manipulations to achieve an ideal fit.
Pattern making is the process of making a model of a garment. A paper pattern is used as a template to cut out the fabric that meets the specifications needed to sew the garment. It depends on the type of material, the intended fit of the wearer and the surfaces used. The pattern is used to make the 2D fabric fit properly to the 3D body.
Clothes Design Process
The most common methods of pattern making are draping and flat patterning. Each method requires slightly different tools to do the job.
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Draping is done by manually manipulating the fabric into a garment shape to give it the desired look.
To get started, you’ll need the dress shape, fabric (this can be your own fabric or a less expensive material of similar weight and drape quality), needles, patterned paper, a French curve, and a straight ruler.
The fabric is wrapped around the form until it reaches the desired shape, and then marked on the form. The tissue is then removed and laid flat. A French curve and a ruler are used to clean up the lines. The designs are then transferred from the fabric to the drawing paper. After that, you add the seam allowance, notches or any other necessary marks and make the patterns. We’ll see what all this means later.
While spread is a lot of fun and can sometimes be necessary for very complex folds, it is not as efficient or accurate as a flat pattern.
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The flat pattern is flat, as the name suggests. Pattern paper, French curve, straight ruler and pencil are used to make hand flat designs. CAD software is used to create digital flat models. The drawing methods for creating flat patterns are the same whether you do it digitally or manually.
Nowadays, in the fashion industry, digital pattern making is more and more popular than hand drawing patterns on paper. It is more accurate, takes less time and allows you to preview the final design on the digital model, saving up to 30% on prototyping costs. Fashion design software like Tukatech provides its customers with a large library of 2D and 3D fashion design templates. This is a great learning opportunity for fashion designers new to 3D design as you don’t have to create models from scratch.
Using the correct body measurements is essential to create a well-fitting garment. But how to find the right body measurements? It depends on who you make!
If you are making a custom garment for yourself or someone else, take the wearer’s body measurements and use these to create a pattern. Usually, such a measurement data sheet is used to record all the necessary measurements.
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But what if you make clothes for the mass market? You need a more general body measurement. There are several ways to find the right body data to create the models you need. ASTM body data can be purchased through several companies and is an amalgamation of hundreds of thousands of body tests. You can also partner with third-party body data consultants, such as Alvanon and Human Solutions, to help you customize body data for your target market.
What are body measurements and how to find them? Learn all about body measurements, how to take them, and how they relate to building models and making assessments. Steph Thiel blog
A basic model, also known as a block model, directly corresponds to body measurements and is not easy to wear. Master templates are key to achieving consistency across your brand. A consistent fit means your customer can buy their size with confidence every time they buy a product from you, knowing it will fit. Using a base swatch library as the starting point for all swatches is the best way to build that confidence.
A robust library of basic patterns offers patterns with only the seams necessary for fit and the fit required for the fabric type. Design simplicity, additional design lines and other design features can be added later at the style level.
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Now that you have your body measurements, you need to determine the comfort of your clothing. The degree of difference between body measurements and clothing measurements is called clothing ease. The cut of the garment determines how well the garment fits the body. A loose-fitting garment is more comfortable than a tight-fitting one. Some garments, such as athletic leggings, have negative ease, which means that the garment measurements are smaller than the body measurements. Stretch fabrics are the only ones that allow negative lightness.
The comfort of a garment consists of two parts: ease of wear and ease of design. Ease of use is the degree of ease required for movement within the garment. For example, a woven garment typically needs 3-4 inches of ease at the bust line to look and feel close to the body, while a cotton knit garment only needs 1 inch of ease, and cotton/elastane blend knits have negative ease. to the bust line. Ease of design is any additional ease beyond the ease of use required to achieve the desired design. For example, if you want a garment with a loose weave, it provides extra comfort with the ease of use you need.
Once you have your body measurements and design, you can start determining the dimensions or specifications of the garment. Some of these measurements come directly from your body data, while others are for the comfort of the garment.
The sketch shows that this is a looser fit, meaning there will be some comfort, especially at the sleeve opening where it flaps. When working on a top, the most important measurements to determine the fit of a garment are the bust, waist, hem, shoulder, and the distance between the armhole and armpit.
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In this tutorial we will be using fabric for our garment. Textured fabrics require more ease than knits as they do not offer flexibility. For a loose fitting fabric garment, we need 6-8 inches of ease at the bust. Our base body has a 34″ bust, so we use a 40″ full bust or a 20″ half bust.
We then go through all the points of measurement (POMs) necessary to create the full specification of our garment.
One thing to keep in mind when creating specifications is the tolerance required during manufacturing. Tolerance is the amount above or below (often expressed as +/-) acceptable specifications for a garment to pass quality control.
In the process of sewing and construction, there are several factors that can cause slight deviations in the final dimensions of the garment, so these must be taken into account in the specifications. In general, larger body measurements such as chest or hips have a tolerance of +/- ½”, while smaller areas such as finger width or neck slope have a much smaller tolerance.
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When determining tolerances, care must be taken to ensure that they are large enough to allow for the necessary manufacturing variances, but small enough that there is no overlap between dimensions. For example, if your S has an 18-inch inseam and your M has a 19.5-inch chest, you don’t want a 1-inch tolerance because that means you can use a S with a 19-inch inseam in production. chest and size M, half bust 18.5 inches. This creates confusion and inconsistency for the consumer. By limiting the tolerance to +/- ½”, it ensures that the largest S is 18.5″ and the smallest M is 19″, so there is no crossover.
There are several different ways to draw a flat pattern: drawing a base pattern is entirely based on measurements, while drawing a style pattern often involves taking an existing base pattern and manipulating it to fit the garment’s specifications and design.
Using the pattern paper and straight ruler or CAD program, create a rectangle equal to the entire length of the top from the center of the back (CB) to the neck to the waist. This measurement should be taken directly from your body data. The width of the rectangle should be ¼ of the total chest width of the garment. You will use this rectangle as a starting point for drawing the bodice pieces. You can learn the entire basic process of creating templates here.
Once you have the basic templates, you can create an infinite number of style templates. In our example, we will be referring to the same bell sleeve top we saw earlier. If our base model has a chest width of 37″ and we