Interior Window Trim Ideas Pictures – In this post, I’m sharing how to install a DIY window using basic wood on a budget.
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Interior Window Trim Ideas Pictures
Installing new windows and doors is one of my favorite ways to improve the interior of a home. Or in this case, inside my training.
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I am installing this DIY window treatment on new construction windows and doors in my new workshop. So there is no jewelry. However, I have done this many times on doors and windows that already have decorations.
If your window already has a window, delete it first. You can use a pry bar and hammer to carefully remove the window frame until you are left with a 2×4 frame, as you can see in this picture.
I have provided a YouTube video here showing you how to install a DIY custom window for your windows. And there is a step-by-step written tutorial below:
If there is a large gap between the window and the glass You must close this gap before connecting the window. You can fill this with a lot of grass, let it dry, and cut it right up to the window.
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Typical log homes and buildings have back walls with 2×4 or 2×6 In my case, I have 2×4 walls and I used 1×6 for the window sill/sill and 1×4 for the front end. The window.
However, if you have a 2×6 wall, you will need a larger board because your wall is larger. I recommend using 1×8 for the side boards and 1×6 for the interior frame. (*This is in the list of tools below)
I’ve listed the basic measurements I used in this project below. But the number/length of boards you need will vary depending on the size of your window and how you cut it.
I recommend reading the details. Then measure the window and get the approximate size. For each section in the tutorial and see how much wood/tools you need.
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I added the first window. So I took a 1×6 to do this, and measured around the front opening of the window. The center of the 2×4 box is the front window.
This is because I added 1x4s (3 ½” wide) to each side of the back window. So I had to add 7 inches to the opening dimensions. But I also like to have 2 inches of protrusion on each side.
Therefore, the overall height of this 1×6 window should be equal to = front opening + 7” + approximately 4” overhang on each side.
I cut a 1×6 to this length. Then mark the center of the board (eg If you are cutting a board 60″ long, mark at 30″.) I used the front opening measurement, divided by 2, and placed the distance on each side of the board from the center line.
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I went back to the window and measured from the front of the window to the front of the plaster in several places and found an average.
In theory, the value should be the same for all lengths. But it’s not really true. Using the average seems to work better.
I marked this measurement from the edge on each end of the 1×6 and used a square to mark these marks. So that I can see where the front window is going in the window.
Basically you are measuring and marking the 1×6 so that it will sit close to the opening. Instead, it wraps around and stretches each end on the dry side.
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You may need to edit and modify it a bit. But when that’s enough it’s time to hurt the nails.
For this entire project I relied on a Ryobi AirStrike battery nailer.
I have used my Ryobi AirStrike nailers for over 4 years and have recently added a Ryobi AirStrike 16 nailer to my shop.
I like to use a 16 gauge for large, very large doors, windows, and sills because it is a large nail. So it takes a while.
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But I like to keep the 18 gauge simple for small, simple parts like crowns and a second round part that I’ll add later.
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I used this 16 gauge AirStrike to hold this window in place with the rest of the window.
When the window is set Next I add the rest of the front window.
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I cut a 1×4 lengthwise to open the top. As I said before my wall here is 2×4 studs If you are working with a 2×6 wall, you will need a larger board, like a 1×6.
When cut to length I again measured the distance between the inside of the window and the inside of the dry area in several places. Then find the average
I removed this wide board from the table saw and put it in place. You want all the interior panels to be flush with the top of the window. and as close to the inside as dry as possible.
Once the INSIDE window was done, I went to install the OUTSIDE window. That’s the best part, haha.
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I usually place the outside of the trim so that about ⅛” of the edge of the board is “exposed” to the inside edge.
This ⅛” display helps hide small imperfections if the board is mishandled or bent. And it allows you to come back later and easily close that point for the paint job.
So for these parts I measured from the window of the plate to the inside of the top plate. Then add ⅛” to the indicated area.
I measured and cut this length on each side to a theoretical 1×4. They should be the same length. But in reality there may be slight differences. Therefore, each side must be cut to fit.
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I nailed this using a Ryobi 16 gauge AirStrike nailer, keeping it about ⅛” from the front to leave some exposure.
Then I measured the sides from step 3 to find the length of the top and bottom pieces. I cut two 1x4s of this length and put one on the bottom and one on top.
Remember that when nailing the exterior panels, it is important to use nails long enough to penetrate the board. using gypsum walls and in the studio or the background frame.
Since these boards are 3/4″ tall and the gypsum wall here is 1/2″ tall, I used 2 inch long nails to leave about 4 inches of wood behind the gypsum wall to hold it in place .
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And on that note You should also make sure that you are nails and/or nails.
Usually (in most cases) there will be a fixed header at the top of the window. But under the window You can use the rivet detail to find where to drive your nails.
Once the outer frame is installed you can stop and leave it as it is. But I like to add detail by painting the crown and half.
I will start molding the crown. And first I want to cut the part that will go forward.
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I suggest you watch the video for more details on how to cut the crown if you are unsure.
Instead, I cut the crown molding to make the length of the top board. and nailed it in place with a Ryobi 18 gauge AirStrike.
An 18-inch nail gun will shoot small nails. Therefore, it is suitable for simple, delicate things like crowns and a round part in the next step.
On the lid, cut a small crown. A few pieces to “round” the edge of the top board. One end has a step and is square.
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The flat back panel should be 3/4″ wide to fit the 1×4’s on top.
I like to tear off a few pieces of masking tape and put them to good use. Then use wood glue on the corners and bottom. Now press this to the end until the glue dries.
I bent the end of the circle to 45 degrees and hammered nails into the bottom edge of the 1×4 here, again using 18 gauge nails, since smaller nails are better for those delicate pieces.
I just found this in the 8 meter size and have been since.